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Mr. Super Clear

After I released a tutorial on my repaint process, I received a lot of questions about Mr. Super Clear. I had one particular person who asked me for help in using it for the first time which was sort of educational for me too based on her experience in using it. She had a lot of great questions and I admit, I had to research answers for a lot of them. I’m sharing my knowledge from what I learned from the exchange since it might be useful for aspiring doll artists out there.

 

What is Mr. Super Clear?

Mr. Super Clear is one of many types of sealants created by a company called Mr. Hobby. Mr. Hobby, as the company name suggests, is a familiar brand name for people who like to customize toys or make dioramas. They have a huge range of products from two part putties, paint and different types of sealants depending on what you want to do or what you need. The brand name is not common to western countries since it’s a Japanese based company.

Mr. Super Clear has gained popularity among BJD artists. What’s great about Mr. Super Clear is that not only can it be used for BJD’s and vinyl dolls, it can also be used to seal traditional artwork, or even sculptures, or any surface you want to color and want to keep the color on. Being a mixed artist, this is why Mr. Super Clear was an absolutely necessary part of my tool kit. Aside from being versatile, Mr. Super Clear was inexpensive even next to common place art sealants available at stores. Although it was a hassle to have to buy Mr. Super Clear online, for me it also had the added benefit of being long lasting. Dolls or artwork, your colors did not fade. It had a very strong chemical smell but it only lasted for as long as you were applying it on the artwork. It was odor free and it made sure that the surface you applied paint or pigment on, stayed on without any adverse effects to the surface below.

I’m honestly not sure whether Mr. Super Clear was specifically designed for BJD artists or sealing traditional artwork but due to its growing popularity, a new formula was developed called Mr. Super Clear UV. The original formula had a “yellowing” effect on vinyl and resin dolls after several years or if dolls were frequently exposed to sun light. The yellowing effect was found to be caused by sun damage. Mr. Super Clear UV is essentially the same as Mr. Super Clear with the extra added benefit of preventing the yellowing effect. Dolls could now safely brave the sunlight and ensure that they had permanent sunscreen on.

 

 Where can I get Mr. Super Clear?

You can sometimes get lucky and find Mr. Super Clear available in Asian stores or areas like Little Tokyo at Konikuniya stores. Some specialty hobby stores may even carry them since they are popular with mecha toy collectors.

Otherwise, you can pick up Mr. Super Clear at Junkyspot or various stores at Amazon, or just google it and check the results. It’s pretty popular so there’s tons of places where you can get it.

 

Which kind should I get?

Mr. Super Clear and Mr. Super Clear UV both come with a Flat and Gloss version. If you are going to do any vinyl or resin doll repaint, go with the Flat version. Gloss is recommended for hard plastic surfaces like Monster High bodies and does work on vinyl doll heads if “shiny” skin is precisely what you’re looking for. You still need to use the Flat version in order to apply any repaint work done and can only use gloss as a finishing agent if shiny skins are your motive.

Gloss is what you need to use for the bodies. The Flat version will simply flake off due to mild mold release residue on the bodies. If you have the patience to sand the body and carefully wipe all the mold release from the MH body surface, you can use Mr. Super Clear Flat. Even so, it won’t guarantee that there won’t be any flaking here and there.

The Flat version of Mr. Super Clear will take the shine off any shiny surface you apply it on which gives it that “teeth” you need for applying pastels, paints or color pencils when working on doll repaints. The Gloss version will make everything shiny and look like one of Masamune Shirow’s permanently oiled bodies. Both are useful depending on what look you are going for.

The only real difference between Mr. Super Clear and Mr. Super Clear UV is that the UV version ensures that your doll repaint will remain what it is now for several years and will not yellow. Mr. Super Clear UV is also considerably more expensive than Mr. Super Clear.

In some ways, if you are a beginner, you should try using Mr. Super Clear to start with. Just keep in mind that your work will have a mild yellowing effect after 1-2 years, even worse and faster if you take your doll outdoors often. Mr. Super Clear is also generally more inexpensive usually with a $12-15 price tag per can, sometimes even more readily available.

You can usually pick up both the flat and gloss version in the same shop since they are usually sold side by side.

 

How do I use Mr. Super Clear?

Mr. Super Clear is a spray sealant and, like any other spray sealant, it is toxic. If you use this stuff, do it outdoors or a well ventilated area with a mask on. There are some people who may even have a bad reaction to its fumes even if it lasts for a shorter period of time compared to other sealants.

In addition to using Mr. Super Clear outdoors or a well ventilated area, it is extremely sensitive to temperature. Don’t use Mr. Super Clear especially if it’s windy, rainy, hot and humid. Little to no humidity is the key so the ideal conditions are dry weather (don’t use in temperatures of 30’C or more, humidity of 70% or more).

Don’t use oil based paint with Mr. Super Clear. They will not be sealed and will cause a chemical reaction rendering the oil paint permanently sticky. It will ruin your work. For doll repaints, use water based materials like soft bodied acrylic paint and water color pencils. Not only will water based materials allow for easy clean up and touch ups, they will stay on after being sealed with Mr. Super Clear. Try to keep your paint applications thin and flat. If your work has glop, it is very likely to flake off because parts of the paint are not able to dry properly. On that note, only apply Mr. Super Clear when the paint has completely dried and only continue work once Mr. Super Clear has completely set (which should take about 15-30 minutes).

EDIT 7/15/2014:

“[OPTIMAL WWATHER CONDITION] The room tempereture 25 degrees Celsuis. The room humidity is around 50-60 percent. Plase don’t use on a rainy day.” I emailed Mr.Hobby awhile back and finally got a reply. The spelling made my giggle.

Myra Dimler

How far do I spray?

Spray Mr. Super Clear within 1 to 2 feet away from the surface of what you will be working on and try to limit it to 3-5 seconds just enough to leave a thin and even coat. You don’t want to inhale any of it and you just want it far enough to get a nice even coat.  Try to circle it around an uneven surface like doll heads or limbs to get an even spread. If you spray too close, it will cause clumps, a thick layer or a flaky texture.

It is normal for Mr. Super Clear Flat to look wet immediately after application. As it dries, the surface will have a non-shiny texture, a perfect matte surface.

Mr. Super Clear Gloss is a lot harder to tell by sight when it has finished setting so play it safe and just leave surfaces where you have applied Gloss alone for 15-30 minutes, even up to an hour. If you touch an area that hasn’t completely set, it will leave unwanted imprints which means you have to start over from scratch.

Sealant Safety

Being a Japanese product, MSC cans do not display English safety or directional text. Being a sealant/propellant, MSC is harmful to your respiratory system, eyes and skin. Some folks may be especially sensitive so use proper equipment and caution as you would when using any kind of propellant/aerosol product. MSC is only toxic during its “fluid” state which is when it’s in use being sprayed or drying on a surface. It is completely harmless once dry.

  • Use in a well ventilated area.
  • Wear a mask (or a respirator for those who are sensitive).
  • Avoid contact with eyes or skin (wear gloves!).
  • Keep can out of extreme temperatures (cold or hot) or direct sunlight.

Be advised that when using sealants indoors, out spray will end up on anything it is sprayed on or near it. It will float around the room and settles on everything in the form of white dust.

Spray booths can be used but make sure that it has a fan with an explosion proof motor. Most hobby spray booths used for water-based airbrushing do not have explosion proof motors. The fan localizes and contains out-spray or dried Mr. Super Clear within the spray booth.

Mr. Super Clear Alternatives?

Why bother when it does what it’s supposed to do well? If you really can’t afford to because it is unavailable in your area, here are a few alternatives that I would recommend.

  •  ZM Finishing Powder Spray – Specifically designed for Volks resin dolls. I’ve never used it myself but it is one of the most popular sealers used by doll artists. If it’s recommended on a Dollfie doll, it must be really good. Just sayin!
  • Games Workship Spray Varnish Matte – Used on miniatures so that already tells you that it’s got good teeth action for pastel work! They are readily available at hobby stores and are relatively inexpensive.
  • Liquitex Matte sealer – It isn’t a spray sealer, it’s a brush on sealer. Since it’s a popular brand, it’s readily available in many places (even if sometimes the price isn’t reasonable). Unlike spray sealers, you aren’t guaranteed a flat, smooth surface so using this will require a lot of ingenuity and skill to take advantage of what you’ve got when you do your doll repaint. The best way to get a nice even surface is to dilute the Matte sealer and dab it with a cotton bud. Just make sure that the surface is absolutely dry before you attempt any work because you may occasionally have to go back and re-dab the surface. You’ll know when you’re done by feel or with clear sunlight to see the matte surface. If you ever wanted to repaint those gargoyles, this would be a great pick.

I am very wary of using any other type of sealer outside of the three I have mentioned because of the known yellowing effect, the residue odor or unintended chemical reactions to vinyl because it wasn’t designed for it.

Mr. Super Clear is hands down the best and only sealer I prefer to use for doll repaints (or anything I do that requires a surface to be sealed). I hope this was informative and feel free to ask any questions or share knowledge of your own experience!

Further Reading

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  • Buying something from my shop.
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Thanks! =)

This Post Has 82 Comments
  1. I just got my very first can of MSC!! WOOT! Now even though the basic directions are in English, there are pictures of the cap, nozzle and that part is in Japanese. Anyone know? Also up at the top the Mr Hobby site translates to English but I didn’t see the cap instructions there. One more most important thing…does anyone know what solvent removes the MSC, just in case. It says it’s an aerosol resin, but I know of no known solvent for resin… Help? Getting ready to start my first faceup and reroot on an 18″ doll… crossing fingers! <3 Pam

    1. Can’t say much about the English translation for MSC but as for a solvent that removes MSC, I’ve heard other artists use Windsor and Newton’s Brush Cleaner. Since I haven’t dabbled enough on resin dolls, please make sure you experiment if it works with your dolls first. I can’t speak for whether it will actually work or not.

  2. I’m using Mr. Super Clear Flat UV, but for some reason it’s drying shiny on the vinyl doll I’m spraying it on. It also isn’t creating any kind of tooth so watercolor pencils aren’t working on the surface. Do you know what could be causing this? I’m spraying it in optimal weather conditions and shaking the can before using it.

  3. Hi ^^ I’ve been reading up on this page for a while, and I have a problem with my msc. I’m a first timer at ball joint dolls and their faceups, but I know its supposed to be more matte than I’m getting. ive noted everything you’ve written yet something is still going wrong. I have msc uv cut matte, but hes continuously coming out shiny. today I retried and the same thing happened again. up close, the msc looks all spotty instead of smooth. its not flaking or anything, its just not looking right. I’ve looked everywhere and nothing has an answer for me, and asking on facebook just got me ignored , so I was really hoping you could help me. thanks !

    1. I inhaled Liquitex Matte Varnish by accident. I felt dizzy so I went to breathe fresh air. I’ve had the door open for about an hour now do you think I’ll be okay?

  4. I have been trying to learn to repaint my MH dolls and I’m fairly new to it..well I cant seem to get my watercolor pencils to draw well on the doll faces, do I need to use multiple layers as the base of my MSC to aid? or is it just one layer that is needed?

      1. I’ve read it 😀 I am still not sure if one or more layers of the primer is required though. Do I just apply until it has the grit feeling?
        Thank you!

        1. You don’t want to apply too many layers. You do want to achieve the grit texture. That may require a lot of practice depending on what you’re using as a primer/sealant so use a test doll until you get the results you’re looking for.

  5. Normally when I’m customizing in cold, hot or humid weather, I spray the MSC UV outside and then bring the doll head back inside to dry. So far, this has worked out for me (anyone else do this?).

    Also, I have an issue with sealants in general–
    Said issue being that I spray them, they dry, but the smell lingers. I can leave the room and it’s still there. It irritates my lungs and while it’s only happened a few times, I’m getting paranoid that it’s going to give me lung cancer or something (I mean, I often read that it’s not just toxic, but really toxic). I spray with the mask but then take it off when I come inside and set the doll down. ;-;
    Maybe I’ll just start keeping the mask on for about a half hour until the smell totally fades.
    How much exposure do you have to have to this stuff for it to do horrible and/or permanent damage? Again, I might just be paranoid, but I’d rather be safe than sorry. :c

    1. Sorry, not much I can say about prolonged use. I’ve never personally suffered long term issues since I’ve always used it outdoors and never lingered in the area where I sprayed. If you want more specific answers, you can try and contact the manufacturer or talk to a health professional (about aerosol safety and use).

  6. Um, is 45 degrees Fahrenheit too cold? It’s not really that humid but I don’t want to wait until next season to start doing my doll. :T I just got all of the supplies to start and I didn’t take into account that you had to have certain weather conditions for the sealant.

  7. Hello! Can you please help me with my question?
    I had trouble today, a lot of Tamiya x-22 varnish was accidently poured out from the bottle, and i’m afraid that it is really toxic. But I continued work with it.After work i open all windows wide and all things with varnish on it took to another well ventilated room. I don’t know is a vapors are toxic or liquid… Can you please tell should i work in respirator with such kind of varnishes in future? I want my hobby was safe for my health.
    It says on the bottle that some ingredients in Tamiya x-22 could cause such big problems like cancer and others… So now i really regret that i continued work with it in non ventilated area. Do you think it was really damaging for me?

    1. It takes constant and large amounts of exposure for side effects to happen so just having one incident is nothing to worry about. However, you always need to make sure you’re working in a well ventilated area when working with aerosols or varnishes. I don’t have much experience using Tamiya x-22 varnish so this is a question you might want to ask the manufacturer for more information.

  8. Hi
    Sorry I am a french girl so my english isn’t perfert ! 😉

    I want to say tank you for all your help and also I want to say that your dolls are really pretty !!

    I just have a question, you don’t talk about “TS-80 Mat Varnish – 100ml Spray Can TAMIYA” what do you think about this product ? There is a shop near my house, where I can bought it for 10€ so it’s cheap comparing to all the web products but I don’t know if it’s a good idea or not !!
    Please can you help me ?

    I have a second question :
    One time I try to pain( whith a little ” pinceau”) a little cicle (with acrylic paint ) on the back of my Monster high doll head but every lines still visible and not flat like you … So it’s makes it horible and absolutely not pretty…

    Do you think it’s better to use only watercolors pencils and blush ?

    Thank you

    Manon

    I hope you can understand me with my terrible english !!

    1. Hey Manon! Welcome! Your English is fine! =)

      Q1 – A1: Varnishes produced by Japanese companies are usually safe for vinyl dolls, especially from Mr. Hobby and Tamiya because they’re usually designed to work with plastics. I haven’t experimented with Tamiya’s Matte varnish yet so I would suggest you test it on a practice doll first, observe it for a month and if it doesn’t have any weird reactions then you’re set!

      Q2 – A2: It just takes a lot of practice. Use the smallest possible brush you can tolerate and always use thin layers. Keep layering paint / watercolor pencils until you get the look you want. It’s easier to correct mistakes when you layer.

  9. Hi! I’ve been using MSC for a few weeks now and I’m noticing a faint white dotting on my face plates after they dry! Am I too close when I spray?!

    Thanks for your insight!
    Tiffany

    1. There’s a lot of reasons you could be getting the dotting:
      – Clean the spray nozzle because it might be dirty
      – Clean the surface you are spraying on and make sure it is dry. Any residue of any kind will cause problems.
      – Humidity.
      – Spray 1 – 2 feet away.

      Read the article again! Read the comments too. =)

  10. I’m a tiny bit confused still. So Mr Super Clear is used as both a primer or sorts and a setter? it works as the final layer in the process?

    1. It’s intended to be a sealant/finish but because it is able to create a “tooth” for pigment/powder/paint to adhere too which makes it a good Primer. Primer is anything that can function as a protective layer for a surface or to help prepare a surface.

      Some finishes cannot be used as primers (gloss/semi-gloss) but some finishes can also be used as primers as is the case of MSC flat.

  11. Thank you so much for this article! Everything I wanted to know was included and very well written. Now, I am not afraid anymore to try my first MH Repaint (using your tutorial, too 😉 )

  12. Can I use different varnish over Mr. Super Clear? If yes, which one would you recommend? I want to use Mr. Super Clear for some doll repaints intended for kids and it would make me feel better if I had an extra layer of non-toxic varnish on top.

    1. MSC is only toxic in its solvent form (when it’s being sprayed) but once it’s dried, it’s completely harmless. It dries as a clear, protective layer.

      If you want to use additional varnishes for effect (gloss or satin finish), Tamiya Acrylic Clear gloss is a favorite among repaint artists. You can also use any clear polyurethane type gloss finish.

  13. Whats the difference between Mr. Super Clear Flat and Mr. Super Clear Flat, and which is better to use with pastels and watercolor pencils? I’m looking on ebay and I see them both.

  14. Hey, I recently got a can of MSC UV from junkyspot, and there was a translated label on it, and I figured I could post what it says here.
    “EXTREMELY FLAMABLE, HARMFUL IF INHALED
    contains 2-pentanone, 4 methyl, 4 hydroxy 4 methyl ethanol, 2 butanone, 1 butanol, may contain titanium oxide(Tio2), silicon dioxide
    PRECAUTIONS :Keep away from ignition sources and secure ventilation to work area. wear protective gloves, eye/face protection and long sleeved clothes to avoid skin contact. wash hands and gargle mouth thoroughly after handling.
    Do not use this product other than the purpose specified by the manufacturer/supplier. Close container tightly and store indoor and away from heat and rain. Protect from sunlight.
    KEEP OUT OF THE REACH OF CHILDREN
    WARNING: CONTENTS UNDER PRESSURE. do not punctuate, crush, incinerate or store above 120 F
    Directions:
    Use in well ventilated area. High humidity is not recommended. Shake can vigorously before use and shake often.
    spray evenly holding from 10-12 inches from work. Spray with multiple thin layers to get better look. do not stop in middle. Spray past object being painted. To clear valve after using, invert can and spray several times.
    First aid:
    If in eyes, wash eyes with plenty of water and in case of persistence of irritation, get medial attention.
    If on skin, wash with plenty of soap and water, and get medical attention immediately. if inhaled, and you feel unwell because of inhalation, remove to fresh air and keep at rest in a position comfortable for breathing, and call a physician.
    Information: Call 800-22-1222
    WARNING: this product contains chemicals known to the state of California to cause cancer.

    O__o

  15. Please read the thread ‘ Respiratory Safety on Den of Angels’ even if you are not a member just google it.
    YOU MUST USE A RESPIRATOR! this stuff is seriously toxic.
    You cannot reverse the damage done to your lungs. Some face up artist have become very I’ll.
    I have created my own hazmat suit. I am covered from top to toe and I use a spray booth outside on my deck.

    1. MSC is just as toxic as any aerosol product. Just use it properly and you’ll be fine. It’s not “dangerous.” Just practice every precaution the same way you would handle any aerosol product.

      Thanks for the tip about “Respiratory Safety” on Den of Angels.

  16. Do you think that if I do the first few maybe 3 layers with MSC uv cut and do the rest with normal MSC it would still have that UV cut?
    Would it work vice versa?

    1. I honestly don’t know the answer to this. ^^;

      From my own experience, it usually takes 1-2 years before you notice any yellowing from regular MSC, 6 months if the doll involved has constant sun exposure. None of my dolls with MSC UV has ever suffered from yellowing.

      Just as an FYI, dolls will yellow eventually. I haven’t proven this with MSC UV since it’s relatively new but I’ve got a few dolls that are 3-4 years old and still as good as the day they were painted.

      Since MSC and MSC UV are from the same manufacturer, it should be safe to use them interchangeably especially if they’re the same type (flat).

  17. “[OPTIMAL WWATHER CONDITION]
    The room tempereture 25 degrees Celsuis.
    The room humidity is around 50-60 percent.
    Plase don’t use on a rainy day.”

    I emailed Mr.Hobby awhile back and finally got a reply.
    The spelling made my giggle.

  18. So, do you have a video reference for proper spraying technique? Thank you so so so much for answering my questions><

    1. Unfortunately, due to the nature of spray sealants I don’t think anyone has ever made a video because the particles could damage the camera doing the recording.

      It is recommended to spray 1-2 feet away, 3-5 second spurts. You’ll have to try this on your own since results may vary and it also depends on your preference once you get used to the quirks.

  19. What about handling it? This is what I am curious about the most. Alot of people say touching it barehanded can damage the MSC.

    1. A lot of people who report damaging MSC when handling do so because they didn’t wait for MSC to fully cure yet. It takes about 30 minutes to an hour for MSC to fully cure.

      Another reason why MSC could get damaged when handling is if you spray too much so that the layer is too thick that it isn’t curing properly or would crack/flake.

        1. I personally don’t use gloves… and I probably *should.* But don’t take my example! =P There are some people who have super sensitive skin that they should wear gloves or cover any exposed skin. If you’re a beginner, wear gloves anyway to ensure that your hands are clean and have no crusty residue when you work on your dolls.

          1. Thank you! So this should mean I have enough info to beginxD Is it okay if we might go over the 3-5 second spray? I have a feeling I might be.

          2. I don’t recommend going over the 3-5 second spray rule. If you’re spraying “too long” that results in thick layers. If you don’t think you’re covering enough area, just spray in short spurts all over instead of one long spray. You want the coverage to be thin and even.

    1. I’m not sure I’m reading the question right. ^^;

      Spraying MSC on a doll does not minimize staining. However, the gloss variant makes it easy to minimize scuffs because the surface prevents friction when putting clothes on and off.

      The best way to prevent doll clothes from staining your doll is to treat the clothes so that the dyes used to color them don’t bleed into your doll’s plastic in the first place. Here’s a good article about color fastening: http://www.pburch.net/dyeing/FAQ/settingdye.shtml

  20. Is MSC still toxic after it dries? I was wondering if it’s dangerous to touch the dolls that were sealed with MSC, or have them in your room. Also, will the dolls let off harmful chemicals or fumes? I worry because I’ve been fighting cancer, and my younger sister is sensitive.

    1. MSC is only toxic when it’s in it’s solvent form which is when you spray it for application and are exposed to the fumes. As soon as it dries, it’s completely harmless. Although I’m not sure what all of MSC’s ingredients are, it forms something of a polymer/acrylic shell where it was applied. It’s very similar to how car paint works (harmful when you’re spraying it/inhale/ingest and harmless when it’s fully dry).

      MSC is a propellant so anyone with sensitive skin, lots of allergies or lung problems shouldn’t bother using MSC. If they insist, they should take precaution and wear a gas mask or protective suit that completely covers them up. I’ve only heard complaints or side effects from folks who were exposed to MSC as a solvent when in use, nothing to worry about once it’s fully dried. Once MSC is fully dried, it’s as harmless as the thin layer of plastic coating on your fridge or your car.

  21. You need a RESPIRATOR with Mr Super Clear! Please google or go on Den of Angels and read – What you need to know about respiratory protection- this stuff is TOXIC beyond belief. And the damage is irreversible !!

    1. Since it’s a propellant, it’s a best practice to wear respirators whenever possible.

      There may be a few individuals who might be especially sensitive to chemicals used in MSC (but it’s likely that they would have the same exact reaction to any kind of propellant regardless of which brand it is). MSC is the “mildest” I’ve used from my own experience and I’ve been using it for over 10 years now, not just for dolls.

      I think it’s common sense that you shouldn’t be inhaling any of this so a mask might be sufficient for most people, a respirator for folks who are extra sensitive to propellants and for those who do experience very adverse side effects, they shouldn’t be using this at all.

      Anyone who might be having difficulty using MSC is likely not using it properly like using it outdoors or in a well ventilated area.

  22. Hi, it’s the first time commenting here. I was wondering if u know where is it possible to buy the mr. Super clear sealant at Kuala Lumpur. I live in malaysia and I can’t find any stores selling them sealant. I also have a hard time looking for the prismacolour pencil tht is worth buying, I’m gonna start with the 12 piece one’s first, I find it expensive here to buy. Is there any point that u could help me?

    1. Since MSC is a propellant, you are generally going to have some problems trying to import it due to shipping rules and restrictions in your country. You could try purchasing some from Hong Kong, Australia, Philippines or Japan which would be shipped by boat (about 3 weeks to 3 month wait, add in however long it has to sit in customs) through Ebay.

      Try to look for any Warhammer or Gundam suppliers/retailers in your country. They are your best chance of finding Mr. Super Clear or an alternative sealant (anything by Mr. Hobby is good).

      As for Prismacolour brand, it’s a very popular and widely available brand so you should be able to find it. If you have any art supplies retailer in your country, the kind that sells artist grade stuff, you should be able to find it there. Other alternatives are Derwent and Faber Castelle. Don’t use student grade (example: Crayola). You usually can’t go wrong with German or French brand of watercolor pencils. I’m not quite familiar with Chinese brand art materials but you should experiment those too. I have used some in the past that were the same quality as Prismacolour, I just don’t know how to read Chinese characters to be able to recommend those. ^^;

      You should check out this other article for info on repainting supplies: http://www.nonaptime.com/2013/07/supplies-for-repainting/

      Good luck!

  23. I have a question regarding the Mr. Super Clear Flat.
    Whenever I use it there is always a risk of spots coming out chalky or murky.
    I have used it a number of times and certains spots, before and most times after, will turn white.
    Can I ask why? The dolls are ALWAYS dry when I use it… before and after painting.
    thank you

    1. Here’s a few tips you can try:

      Doll prep:
      – Give your doll a thorough bath to wash off any mold release residue or any other foreign substance that could be on the plastic(just in case!). Dishwash soap is good for clean up. Let the doll air dry for a good 24 hours or until it’s no longer damp and completely dry.

      Guidelines:
      – Make sure your spray area is clean, doesn’t have any dust or debri that could get stuck on your sprayed surface.
      – Spray 1-2 feet away from the doll and for 2-5 seconds only
      – Ideal spray temperature is between 75-90 F
      – Ideal weather is sunny, calm weather. Don’t bother if it’s cold, raining or humidity is high. Humidity is MSC’s worst enemy.
      – Don’t spray if you have 100 degree heatwave weather either.

      Tips/Tricks:
      – Dip the MSC can in hot water, just enough to make sure the can is not cold to the touch. Not boiling water, just enough to heat MSC so that it’s around room temperature.

      I’d also recommend reading up on the “Further reading” section from this article:
      http://www.nonaptime.com/2013/11/wip-mishaps-with-mr-super-clear/

      There’s several useful tips and tricks from model painters who also use MSC.

      Hope that helps!

    2. Do you know the air humidity where you use it? I haven’t used MSC very much but I’ve read quite a bit and it seems to require fairly dry air. Winter is upon me and I’m down to 40% at 20 degrees celcius which seems to work fine. (Got myself a meter)

      1. I honestly don’t know. The best/perfect conditions are if you are in a Mediterranean climate. There’s actual “weather” where I live so I essentially wait until conditions are right, but can’t do much if it’s raining or cold.

    1. Yeah, you can use MSC to seal custom work you do on any plastic pieces. I do it and it’s fine. It’s preferable to use the gloss version though because there will be less friction involved. Matte will chafe over time.

  24. Me again… do you know what exactly happens if MSC is applied when it’s too humid? It’s usually >70% where I live 🙁

    Thanks again.

  25. Hi, thank you for all the info! I’m getting started with faceups – on vinyl first. I like to find my own way to do things, so I went with a locally available “alternative”: Golden MSA matte removable spray varnish with UV filter. I tested on an old Bratz doll. It was OK at first, but over time the surface has become more and more sticky. It’s really BAD. I guess the varnish is reacting with the vinyl. So, I just ordered a can of MSC on Ebay. Shipping from Hong Kong to Norway is only $5 – so cheap that it worries me a little. Hopefully it’ll get here at some point.

    (I have not tried the Golden varnish on resin.)

    Oh, by the way: The Golden varnish required shaking the can for two minutes. Could you tell me whether MSC requires a lot of shaking?

    Thanks! 🙂

    1. I really recommend against trying out matte sprays available at craft stores (unless it’s MSC) because many of them are specifically designed to work with canvas, wood or outdoor type of plastics. They are incompatible with the type of plastic used in dolls. The best place to see if there are alternatives is to visit a hobby store that sells Warhammer miniatures or Gundam robots. You’re more likely to run into someone who might be knowledgeable on which clear primer can be used on toys/dolls in general.

      As for using MSC, it’s really important that you use it in a not windy/dry/little to no humidity environment. The humidity level I suspect has something to do with the solvent’s chemical reaction. If you don’t follow the instructions, it’s likely to ruin your work and result in a) powdery surface, b) Thick glop or c) unintentional results of any kind.MSC + humidity is generally just unpredictable.

      Your only real alternative is to use an airbrush indoors. See this video – http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-0hADWUdB9A

      The painter sprays MSC contents into a container and uses an airbrush to apply it. I’m not sure how safe that is though. ^^;

      The only other alternative I can think of is if you can somehow set up some sort of isolation unit (the kind they use in laboratories where you have this glass box with gloves?) and spray that way so you don’t even have to worry about fumes or weather.

      1. Thanks, I appreciate it. MSC it is 🙂

        I was just told by the Ebay seller that because of the pressurized container, the MSC cannot ship by air freight so I’m looking at sea freight, taking 7-12 weeks. That at least gives me plenty of time to set up a glove box, thanks for the idea!

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