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MH Repaint Part 2: Let’s Paint!


This tutorial does not apply to the Ghoul’s Alive line. A Different type of plastic is used for the line’s heads. Using Acetone will result in melting the plastic.

This tutorial is covered in two parts:

Additional resources:

Here’s the next part of the Monster High repaint tutorial! If you haven’t already, you can catch the first part here.


Tools of the trade

Before we jump right into the fun bit, it’s important to get to know your tools. These are just a list of tools I use prefer to use. It’s good to understand their properties and qualities to achieve effects that you are going for.

My tools are generally divided in the following categories:

  • Seals: Mr. Super Clear UV Flat, gloss and matte varnish
  • Pigments: Acrylic paint, Soft pastels, water color pencils
  • Tools: Brushes, cotton q-tips, kneaded eraser


If you’re familiar with digital programs like Photoshop, Sai, Painter, Manga Studio, or MyPaint, seals are essentially the equivalent of how layers are used during the repaint process for me. Unlike digital programs though, there is no “undo” feature once you’ve done something with your canvas but to start over from scratch. Seals keep your work intact, protected and enhanced.

Mr. Super Clear UV Flat

If you do any kind of doll repaint, Mr. Super Clear UV Flat is an absolute necessary part of your tool kit. Mr. Super Clear was especially designed for resin and vinyl dolls. As such, the finish has a “toothy” texture that allows pastels and powders to stick to surfaces that it’s sprayed on.

Other types of matte sprays are specifically designed for traditional art surfaces such as oil paintings, wood paneling, or canvases which will cause a yellowing effect if applied to vinyl or resin, sometimes even damage it due to unusual chemical reactions. Mr. Super Clear is available at most hobby stores, Junkyspot and Amazon. It’s been particularly hard to get it lately but it’s usually available for $16-$20 in the US.

When using this stuff, make sure you do it outside or a well ventilated area with a mask on. It’s absolutely toxic and very bad for your lungs! Make sure that you shake the can before you spray it to make sure that all the contents are properly mixed. Spray within 1-2 feet of the doll’s face to get an even coating. Don’t use this if there is too much humidity since the moisture will prevent the seal from adhering to the surface properly and cause white flakes.

From personal experience, Mr. Super Clear doesn’t seem to take well to Monster High bodies and flakes off eventually. If you really wanted to, apply Mr Super Clear UV GLOSS, then apply the flat version. My theory is that the plastic used for the bodies are too smooth for any of the sealer to actually hold on to, much like why mentos explodes when you drop it in soda.

Since it’s been relatively hard to get a hold of this lately, I try to use it sparingly. Use as little of this as possible anyway not just for cost but for health and because it’s good for your work in general. All you need is 5-10 seconds of applying the sealant for one layer, just enough to coat the surface very lightly. Too many layers will cause cracks in your work or a caking effect.

Gloss and Matte Varnish

I acquired my first Gloss and Matte Varnish from Dollyhair so I’m not really sure what brand it is. I have seen Liquitex Gloss and Matte varnish by most doll artists. At first I just never used any but boy is it a huge improvement when you do!

If used during the repaint process, apply gloss or matte varnish over the sclera (white part of the eye) before you draw the irises. The result is you get something of a translucent, watery effect just like with real eyes. When used as a finish, it enhances and helps make colors “pop.”


These are essentially items you would use to color or paint with.

Soft Pastels

I use a brand called “Pro Art Soft Pastels.” I have had this set since I was in High School (which was a very long time ago!) and have used these to make realistic miniature food, illustrations, basically anything where you want/need to control areas of blush/dirt.

This is the first thing to apply for a doll repaint since they are really easy to mess up due to unintentional smudges or just overdoing it. Sometimes it helps to plan your doll repaint process since it’s difficult to imagine your work finished when all you are looking at are blushed areas. However, applying the soft pastels first also adds that added “toothy” texture to hold your acrylics or water color pencils when it’s time to draw the face on.

Due to the nature of soft pastels, this is also why I apply a sealer on a blank face before any actual painting happens: 1) To create a layer that protects the vinyl from getting stained; 2) Tooth for the pastel pigments to hold on to. If you ever make a mistake and need to start over, it all gets wiped off clean.

Acrylic Paint

They’re so versatile! I have been using Liquitex Basic Acrylics for years. They’ve always been reliable and accessible for various artistic experiments I’ve done in the past. They’re like glorious versions of watercolors for me. They don’t fade with time, and they’re perfect for doll repaints since they sort of dry in some kind of rubbery consistency that just “bends” with the plastic.

If you’ve worked with acrylics on flat surfaces, don’t be afraid to apply similar techniques on uneven surfaces… like doll faces. You can achieve some interesting effects.

Water Color Pencils

In some cases, brand name matters. I have tried other brands of water color pencils but nothing quite works like Prismacolor. I’ve avoided Prismacolor in the past because they were just so expensive! For good reason though. The colors are vibrant and they’re solid! They make other color pencils look and feel like crayon in comparison. Whatever kind of pigment was used to make Primsacolor pencils, they have a tendency to adhere better to the toothy surface of Mr. Super Clear.

If you ever make a mistake with these, just apply water and start over! They achieve nice crisp lines, sometimes finer and more controlled than what you can do with a brush. They also help me with those nice gradient effects if the acrylics aren’t quite working with me.

Pearl EX Pigment Powders

I think these were meant to be for calligraphy ink effects. I used to use these in clay miniatures or illustrations to add that glorious “sparkly effect.” It was less tacky than using glitter. It looks even better on dolls. Use sparingly unless unicorns are involved.




I personally don’t have any preferred size. It’s just very important that you get a hold of the tiniest brush accessible to you. They are easily found at any hobby or craft stores. Junkyspot and Dollyhair sell tiny brushes ideal for doll repaints if you don’t want to hassle yourself with research.

Cotton Q-tips

Available at any grocery store near you! They help with the clean up, they can also be used as make shift brushes or an alternative to sponge brushes to apply pastels or any powdery type stuff. Awesome.

Kneaded Eraser

These usually come in grey and are those rubber, doughy stuff used with charcoal pencils. They’re available in any art store. The fact that they are like clay makes them ideal to use for correcting stray blushes and erasing pencil mistakes. Remember to knead the eraser often so that you’re always using a “fresh” side. If you accidentally use a stained area, it will result in unwanted smudges.


Let’s Dance

Okay… Let’s paint.

The process is essentially: 1) Apply sealant, 2) Apply blush, 3) Apply Sealant, 4) Apply acrylics/watercolor pencils. Sealant is applied every time you are satisfied with what you’ve done with a layer or you want to secure it. Try to limit your sealant to 5-6 applications.

Apply blush! I want to keep Rochelle’s make up so she keeps her pink eye shadow and lips. I used a round brush and q-tips to apply the soft pastels.

Because pastels get smudged very easily, I seal this again to keep it in tact. We move on to the next layer.

I like to place outlines because I like to color inside lines. I used watercolor pencils to outline the eye shape, eye lids and some detail work on her lips.

Still on the same layer, I painted her sclera. I used watercolor pencils to enhance the sclera with shadows when the paint dried and applied gloss varnish. I seal it again so I can work on the next layer.

I painted her iris. Defined parts of her make up with color pencils.

More definition with water color pencils!

If I’m content with the resulting eyes and lips, I apply seal to secure it so I can do the eyebrows on another layer. That way eyebrows can be drawn and erased as many times without disturbing the layers below. I usually use a color pencil and lightly sketch out the eye brows until I get a good shape. I turn the doll upside down to draw the opposite eyebrow to help with symmetry. 

One more seal!

More definition work to make things pop, applied white highlights to the eye and one last seal! I dabbed a bit of Pearl Pigment on her iris which looks really nice and glittery. Gloss varnish applied to the eyes and lips and she’s done!

Attach the head back on the body and pour boiling water over her head to straighten her bangs back. The hot water should also remove the greasiness.

There you have it! Be sure to watch out for other repaint subjects.

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Thanks! =)

This Post Has 79 Comments
  1. Ok, so my problem is this. You say to use the watercolor pencils dry, but they dont paint at all after i add the mr.super clear sealant. Please help.

  2. Hi! So I have a couple of questions!

    1) What exactly happens to the doll when you spray MSC below average temperature? I live in Alaska and I have a matte UV Cut MSC

    2) Does Liquitex and the vanishes you use, turn yellow over time and does it get streaky with application?

    3) How do you seal PearlEx when you want to use it on the cheeks or forehead? Is it a liquid or powder? Does it lose it’s glitter effect when sealed with matte MSC?

    I recently finished a Bratz repaint and started to reroot. I sprayed over the rooting holes while repainting so when I started the reroot process the holes started to turn white. Someone told me that this is a result when your spray MSC in bad conditions. I’m just very confused because the doll has been finished for a week now and nothing was wrong with it especially while refacing her.

    1. Here are some answers!

      1) I can’t give you the exact reason as to what exactly happens to MSC below average temperature since I’m not a chemist except that it won’t do what you expect it to do if you don’t use it based on the recommended “ideal conditions.” You can’t expect it to work when you aren’t even attempting to create the ideal conditions, of course there’s tons of variations of what will happen. What you want is for the solvent to spray evenly and result in a nice, smooth finish. Manufacturers of spray solvents want you to use their products based on recommended ideal conditions due to a variety of factors that can affect the product and because it won’t work as intended if the product isn’t used in ideal conditions. It is your responsibility to do everything you can to create the ideal conditions for the product to work as intended. Chemicals are finicky little buggers. There is no other way around it.

      I highly recommend reading these articles and the comments section:

      WIP: Mishaps with Mr. Super Clear

      Mr. Super Clear

      Review: Krylon UV-Resistant Clear Acrylic Coating

      Repaint FAQ: Using Watercolor Pencils

      2) I haven’t used Liquitex varnishes as a primer layer often enough to notice any yellowing; As a gloss or detail, I’ve never seen it yellow. I would recommend looking up Andreja as she seems to use Liquitex Varnishes for most of her repaints.

      3) I usually mix PearlEx powders with a liquitex medium to bind it so that is essentially the same as creating a custom acrylic paint color, or use the powder as a blush. It’s a very versatile medium and I’ve only ever used the powder variants. I’m not aware if they come in any other form. I use MSC to seal them and occasionally use gloss to allow the glitter to pop since some variants of PearlEx appear to be dulled by the MSC Matte/flat finish. Painting a gloss varnish over it allows the shimmer to come back.

      As for your Bratz repaint, I can’t speak for other customizers but I personally always reroot first and do the repaint last. My rationale for this is that a doll’s face gets warped when you’re rerooting the head and if you happen to have done any kind of repaint while it’s being rerooted, all that repaint work is likely to get ruined.

      The reason the rooting holes are turning white is due to the MSC being disturbed as you were rerooting. The MSC layer is cracking due to the process of rerooting. That MSC layer is not flexible, it’s flaking due to the process of rerooting, just keep in mind that the plastic is being squished, from the action of punching needles on to that head. Just imagine MSC as a sprayed on piece of paper that dried on the surface of your doll’s head. Of course it will form a few crinkles here and there when you scratch or accidentally crinkle parts of it. Vinyl might be flexible but the MSC layer is not. Once you start seeing damage like this on MSC layer, it’s likely that more parts of the doll’s face will start to see those MSC surface cracks. You’ll need to remove whatever work you had and redo everything from scratch or those cracks will be the equivalent of damage to a foundation of a building if you continue.

      1. Thank you so much for replying! Especially about the MSC cracking because I felt that rerooting was the case but someone insisted that it was because of the weather conditions lol. I can’t wait to build my repainting skills and your answers about the PearlEx and Liquidtex really helped!

  3. Hi! I would like to ask is there a huge difference between MSC flat and MSC UV cut flat? I couldn’t gind UV cut one but it is still Flat not matt.
    Thank you in advance!

  4. I have a quick question, would I be able to just use regular colored pencils, charcoal pencils, or graphite pencils instead of water color pencils? I can’t seem to get a hold of the water color pencils anywhere here in Michigan, and those are the only things I have and can get. Would they work or just ruin the doll’s face?

    1. The places I’ve many times have heard people recommend to go to to look for water colored pencils are always sold out or no longer carry them. Is there anything you would recommend to look for and use if regular colored pencils, charcoal pencils, or graphite pencils won’t do any good? -Thank You

      1. You must use watercolor pencils. You need something that is water soluble and though charcoal, graphite, or oils will work on a paper medium, they have an entirely unpredictable or corrosive response when used with some plastics.

  5. Hi! I’m new to repainting dolls (but enthusiastic!) I’ve been working on my very first doll and have a question about the soft pastels: The ones I bought don’t seem to be sticking to the doll. Like, at all. I started the process with 2 light coats of Mr. Super Clear. Could it be the pastels I bought, or not enough Mr. Super Clear? Before I proceed I thought I’d seek advice. Thank you.

    1. This is tricky since it could be because there isn’t enough grit texture for pastels to stick to with the way you applied MSC, or it could be the pastels (which MUST and SHOULD be Artist grade). If you bought ordinary pastels, they don’t have enough pigment which may result in what you’re experiencing.

      1. Thank you! I did some looking around and found that you’re right! It’s the pastels I bought, so I’m buying a much better brand, one I saw recommended by “Dollightful” on YouTube, (Mungyo). They’re highly pigmented, come in lots of colors in the 64 pack and are within my limited budget on Ebay. I really appreciate your advice and love your blog!

      2. I am buying watercolour pencils and don’t know which basic colour shades to buy to make realistic eyes in blue, olive green, juniper green and brown.. besides what I just wrotte. What are the names of the colours in your set?

      1. I think it may be the too close option as I only do it at an arms length. Another question is, is there a way to fix it? I love how she looks and I would hate to have to redo it

  6. Hi there, I was just wondering if you could lend me some advice. I just purchased one of the new 28″ MH girls. I really want to customize this doll for a Christmas gift, but I’m running into some problems. 1) The head is not vinyl, but hard plastic like the rest of the body. It does not come off from the neck, but I’m pretty confident in my ability to create new hair for her. How do I go about removing the factory makeup though, while making sure I don’t melt the face? 2) These large dolls only came in pink, purple, and blue skintone. Since the body and head are both hard plastic, is there a product that would work to change the color to a natural, very light, skin tone?

    Thank you for any and all help! 🙂

    1. I’ve never worked on dolls with hard plastic faces before so I can’t really help you there. Acetone is a definite no-no but you could experiment with milder solvents like 100% alcohol (which will require elbow grease) or sanding the paint off using very fine grit sandpaper. Also try googling “plastic-safe remover” or “removing paint from hard plastic” and see where the results get you. Here’s a good place to start.

  7. Do you use mr super clear uv flat for Sealing face for the first time? What do you use after blushing the doll and then seal it? Do you use mr super clear uv flat or another sealant?

  8. I recently tried to find prismacolor water color pencils, but also found prismacolor water soluble pencils. Does prismacolor water soluble pencil work just as good for doll repaint?

    I also found 2 types of liquitex gloss varnish. They are both differently color coded, one is red and one is green. Do they both work well for doll repaint?

    1. I honestly don’t know the difference. if you happen to be at the store, you should ask a sales associate. They’re more up to date with products since Prismacolor and Liquitex occasionally changes their packaging so that it looks as if it’s different but it’s actually the same.

  9. Just discovered this tutorial. Your work is stunning! shame you retired now 🙁 But understandable. I put myself in a financial hole when I did commissions on GIJoe customs..cost me more to make the customs than I was receiving for them. lol I realy want to start doing things like this with my dolls. Rochelle looks gorgeous! Really want to try it out on Draculaura. Love how she appears in CGI and really want to try to make the dolls eyes and lips look as close to that as possible. But I know nothing about how to use pastels lol familiar with acrylics and sealer(that vinyl sealer you use is the best for rubbery plastic) but never used the pastels or water color pencils. wondered how ppl added blush to them now I know 🙂 any tips for a first time user of these? Yeah I am terrified to mess up so not going to even touch my original wave one dolls with a brush 0_0 so I followed your advice and bought a cheaper one. going to do a practice run with the scaris draculaura I found at family dollar of all places. any advice is well appreciated. but I still can not get over how gorgeous you made rochelles eyes…just wow they pop!

  10. Hello! I have a biiiig doubt :S Is it really necessary to use watecolor pencils? I do have some Prismacolor pencils but not watercolor. Can I still use those or is it too risky and I might fudged things off?

    1. You don’t have to use watercolor pencils. It’s a preference. If you are going to use pencils, it must be water-based. Oil based materials don’t do very well with plastics in general.

  11. Do you use some specific type of Prismacolor watercolour pencils? It seems to be a ‘premier’ line and a normal line of pencils 🙁 … do you use the ones than came in a metalic box with a tiger? xD thanks a lot ;;v;;

  12. Thanks for your excellent tutorial.
    Can you recommend an equally good alternative to Mr. Super Clear UV Flat, with all the important qualities – tooth, non-yellowing, matte?
    I’m in Canada and cannot find it here, nor will any supplier ship it here.

        1. Thanks! I tag a lot of the articles so you can usually find what you’re looking for using the search feature. If you find any helpful info with your own experiments or adventures, please share! Lotsa folks seem to use the website as a resource for doll customization. ^^;

  13. Can you use Liquitex on the body? Also, will Testors Dullcote stick to the body (and is any other prepping required in order to paint the body)? I’m basically looking for any acrylic that will not leave any streaks or brushmarks, and will preferably dry will a more rubbery texture as opposed to dry or papery (won’t crack). Also, amazing tutorial– it’s really helped me out in starting on repaints. ovo

    1. I haven’t tried Liquitex on the body so I don’t know. As for Testor’s Dullcote, I like it better than MSC. It seems to be better when dealing with stiff plastics.

  14. I am having the worst time with watercolor pencils ;_; They will NOT give me a good line, it’s always mushy and soft… I have tried using them dry and moistened… How the heck do you get a good fine line with these things?! (They are well sharpened too)

  15. I’ve been searching for the perfect step by step instructions for hours and I gladly found your post!

    I do have a question; What did you use the acrylic paints for? To make the colors vibrate or..?


    1. Oops, I meant should it be fine if I use the acrylic paints for making the colors vibrate when I draw on the details with the watercolor pencil?

  16. I think your tutorial is someone who is just getting started with repaints, the “less is better” approach works for me..I need basic steps..and yours pretty much layed out exactly what I need to get started..later on when I have more experience, Ill look for specific details to make my work stand out. Thanks for taking the time to do this, and fooy to the nay-sayers..

  17. brava for explaining ‘in-detail’ why you didn’t do a step by step by step tutorial… it’s important to remember one thing here. first and foremost, this is an artist, who has worked very hard ,trained, practiced, experimented, studied and probably failed a few times to get this looking the way she does. it is not fair for us to ask her or expect her to divulge every last thing she knows to us In 5-6 easy as you please steps. it doesn’t nor should it work that way. she has a style that belongs to her. one that was hard earned and shouldn’t necessarily try to be copied… yes its perfectly gorgeous and we are all in awe! but what she has done is given you the first essential steps that are so important. and then been kind enough to grant us access to the kinds and types of tools used to get specific effects, including brand names and why the preference to it. just for the prepping mentioned alone we should rightly bow down. that is a good chunk of info to be mined for your future reference. so madam thank you kindly for being as kind to share this huge gold mine with us . both experienced and new- tos can learn at least one great thing here and probably many, many more. now… go forth and find your OWN style. then , if its not too much trouble(and you will think maybe it is) tell others what you learned. p.s. this ooak thing rocks!

  18. Hey. I’m realy realy realy realy realy REALY one more time RE-A-LY afraid to repaints my Monster High. I have Operetta and Ghoulia ( Waiting for my classic Draculaura <33 ) it's not afaid " Oh my Rá, I can do something whong, i'll kill my doll" … oh wait, is allready it. But is just because when in the my Country a Monster High price tag is… $89 THE BASIC LIKE, SCARIS, AND DANCE CLASS, the other is $130, Ghou's Alive is $180… Cupid is $300… I'm so revoltd ºnº MY MOM'S GONNA KILL ME IF I DEFACE MY DOLL can you do more tutoriais like that one for me and the others? I'm wnat to be sure myself I gonna not do something whong…

    1. I wrote these tutorials to demonstrate the process my own repaints go through. Even though there are slight variations later on, the basics are essentially the same. I have my own personal preferences on the resulting repaint and I don’t want to impose on other folks what style or results they wanna get.

      If you’re a beginner, repetition and just tons of practice will get you to a place where the results will look the way you want them to. It helps to pick up cheap dolls to practice with before you try it on a doll that you really love. If you have any old dolls you no longer care for, you should try it out on those until you feel comfortable enough that you want to try it on the actual doll you want.

      Don’t be afraid to make mistakes. It’s good when you make them. That means you’re making progress, you’re getting better. =)

  19. Since watercolor pencils are sometimes used, would black India ink be OK for outlines? Or does that not tend to go well with the sealant/vinyl?

    1. Don’t use ink! They’ll soak right into the plastic. From experience, anything that has alcohol (or ink in general) doesn’t play very well with plastics in the long run.

  20. I am inspired by your work. you don’t cover up the doll ’till it’s unrecognizable, but you enhance the beauty it already has.

  21. is it important to use watercolour pencils? Can’t I just use simple Prismacolour pencils? My old watercolour pencils managed to stain my old dolls somehow ?

    1. You could sort of use just simple Prismacolour pencils but you would need more layers of it and it’s not as easy to erase. Regular pencils don’t hold to the MSC teeth as well as the watercolour version.

      Pencils in general will have a tendency to stain the vinyl. This is why it’s very important NOT to work on an unsealed surface. I would also recommend applying the pencils as lightly as you can. If the pressure you apply in drawing on the vinyl surface is too hard, you are probably going past the seal surface directly on to the vinyl. This takes some practice.

      I would also recommend using light colors at the beginning, moving on to darker colors for definition. Red and yellow pigments tend to stain more than cool variants so be very careful when using them. Those are the colors you want to be very light with your hands.

      1. May I ask you more about using watercolors? I have Derwent, which I read is a pretty good brand. And I I just tried them today. I sprayed MH (Frankie) face with Flat Ms Superclear, then started painting her lips. And the color is not bright. I did a few layers, it’s getting a little bit brighter. But for example white pensil doesn’t make those cute white strokes. Is it because of the pencils or am I doing something wrong? Thank you!

        1. Derwent is a good alternative to Prismacolor. They should be just as good. You might want to check on how Mr. Super Clear is applied. It should have a chalky/matte texture (nothing shiny, or too smooth). Read up on my Mr. Super Clear post for more info.

          1. Thank you very much! Somehow I didn’t confirm the subscription to this post and it got lost for 2 years. But better say “thank you” later then never :).

  22. I love your repaints, they are so adorable. I was very excited to see you post a tutorial!!

    I love your tips about using q-tips to apply pastels. Somehow, that’s never occurred to me. Neither had glossing the whites of the eyes before you draw the irises.

    It was very neat to have a little insight into your technique! Thank you for posting this. 🙂

    But I have one question: when you pour boiling water over the head, do you cover the face? If you do, what do you use to cover it?

    1. When I pour the boiling water, I actually don’t cover her face. I do make sure that all the seals have dried completely. Everything I use is waterproof so there’s really no worry when it gets exposed to water.

  23. Thank you for the tutorial! I found it really helpful to get an idea of the basics and where to start!

    As I am too scared to try it though 😀 will your repainted Rochelle be for sale? She is just gorgeous!

    1. Thank you! I got her through a friend so she has sentimental value. I’ll have another Rochelle for sale once she starts hitting the shelves over here.

  24. Well it helped me just fine lol. Im doing my first custom to this Tutorial, along woth some help from RetroGrades, and so far iLike yours waaay better. Especially the part about the sclera. Lol had NO idea how to do that part. Anyway for what its worth, you’ve got my vote :].

    1. That’s good to know and thanks! I’d love to see your repaint when you’re done. =)

      Retrograde’s tutorial will always be valuable for me and a great visual tutorial because she has a system in place. I learned a lot from her. I would not have discovered or bothered to try out color pencils if it wasn’t for her. I’m also a fan girl of her work. XD

      I really wish I could take pictures as well as her. I probably need to upgrade my camera for that.

  25. Not to sound….mean, but as a tutorial I found this rather lacking and more of a step by step of what order to do things. You very quickly move from blank face to popping blue eyes with the ony instruction being ‘more definition’ That’s…an instruction but not at all very clear or direct, nor do you touch on the shaping of the eyebrows or lashes which seems two very largse steps to miss other than to make sure you don’t forget them. Essentially I’d relate it to a cake recipe that states when to pour in each ingredient and then put the batter into the oven without actually saying what amount of each item is needed or the heat and baking time. I think it has a lot of potential if you could please add some more details on your process!

    1. You’re absolutely right. I know it’s lacking on specifics but that was intentional on my part.

      I intended the tutorial as something that gave more information on the kind of tools used and guidelines for the process.

      My tutorial is not intended to be a strictly “how to” guide which is why I didn’t emphasize on actual techniques, why I decided I wanted the eyebrows to look or be shaped that way, or what to do when you’re painting the face. Many of these techniques really depend on the artist on how they choose their dolls to appear. I wrote this tutorial to show how my process works, not how to show you what you’re supposed to do.

      The repaint process is essentially: Seal, blush, seal, apply acrylics/watercolor pencils. Seal everytime you want to secure a layer.

      We’re different artists. We can share the same method but not the same style. We have different preferences and I cannot and should not dictate what your preferences are. The creative process is personal and up to the artist. This is where looking at other artists works and observing their work is also helpful. Find something you like and try to emulate it. More importantly, try something that makes you comfortable.

      I don’t use the same steps everytime unlike most artists. There are times when I use only acrylics, other times just watercolor pencils. I plan to cover those in the future but I needed to lay down the guidelines and process first which is what is shown here.

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