Size: 5 inches
Skill: Easy to intermediate
Hook: US 1.25-1.30mm
Yarn: Size 10 Crochet thread in light peach, metallic silver and white

Supplies

Iron-on fabric, brown felt, embroidery thread, needle, scissors

Abbreviations

ch(s) – chain

dec – decrease

sl – slip stitch

inc – increase

sc – single crochet

sc2tog – single crochet 2 stitches together

st(s) – stitches

[] – Set apart a group of stitches to be repeated as a whole

Notes

• You can substitute brown or linen instead of light peach for skin color.
• All rounds are worked in a continuous spiral. Do not join rounds unless directed.
• Use a stitch marker for counting your rounds. A safety pin or piece of different colored thread can be used as an alternative.
• Gauge is not important but keep your stitches tight. The pattern is written in table format with notes included so that it’s easier on the eyes.

This work is licensed under the Creative Commons Attribution-NoDerivs 3.0 commercial License. For more information, visit http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-nc/3.0/. Please do not reproduce/modify/sell this pattern.

Eyes (Using Iron On Fabric Eyes)

With iron-on fabric, you have the option of making more detailed looking eyes. How simple or detailed they are is completely up to you. Drawing your own eyes gives your amigurumi more character instead of the bug-eyed look common to using safety eyes or buttons.

Iron on fabrics or iron on adhesives are available at any fabric store. They’re usually used to patch up clothing. These are different from iron on transfers which are commonly fed on your printer. Iron on fabric usually come in sheets and look like actual fabric right side up and has a shiny, waxy gloss on the wrong side. Be sure to read the instructions on how to apply iron on fabrics before you use them.

Iron on fabric eyes:

1. Cut out a piece of the iron on fabric in the size you want your eyes to be.
2. Carefully and lightly draw the eyes with a pencil.
3. Trace the final pattern with a pen. Ideally, use a sign pen or any pen that doesn’t bleed on paper or leaves a very precise and fine line. I use a Micron Pigment Ink pen.
4. For this pattern, I used markers to color in her eyes.
5. Carefully cut the eyes with scissors or a cutter.
6. For a childlike look, I place the eyes right above row 19 and leave an eye and a half space in between. For a more mature looking face, place the eyes right above row 18 or 17 and space the eyes equal to 1 eye’s width.
7. Follow instructions provided by Iron on fabric for application.Use a piece of cloth over the eyes to make sure it doesn’t stain your iron.

Pattern

I like to make the head first especially if I’m using iron on fabric for the eyes since you get a preview for what your Amigurumi will look. It helps to have a face to look at.

Head

Row	Stitches	Color	Notes
1	6	Skin (light peach)	Magic loop
2	12	Skin (light peach)	2 sc on every st all the way
3	18	Skin (light peach)	[inc 2, sc] all the way
4	24	Skin (light peach)	[Inc 2, 2sc] all the way
5	36	Skin (light peach)	[inc 2, sc] all the way
6 to 7	36	Skin (light peach)	sc all the way
8	48	Skin (light peach)	[Inc 2, 2 sc] all the way
9 to 19	48	Skin (light peach)	sc all the way (If you are using iron on transfer for the eyes, do it here before going to the next row. The head flattens out to a semi circle when you iron the eyes on.)
20	36	Skin (light peach)	[Dec 2, 2 sc] all the way
21	36	Skin (light peach)	sc all the way (If you are using Safety eyes, insert them here. You can also start sewing embroidered features at this point and start stuffing)
22	24	Skin (light peach)	[sc2tog, sc] all the way
23	18	Skin (light peach)	[Sc2tog, 2 sc] all the way
24	12	Skin (light peach)	[sc2tog, sc] all the way

* Fasten off and leave enough thread for sewing later.

Tip: When using iron on fabric, wait for the head to cool off before continuing. This ensures that the eyes are securely attached. Carefully round the face out when cooled.

Tip: Just stuff the head enough for it to be firm but don’t overstuff. If the head is too heavy it will tend to wobble.

Ears (make 2)

Row	Stitches	Color	Notes
1	6	Skin (light peach)	Magic loop
2	12	Skin (light peach)	2sc on each st all the way
3	18	Skin (light peach)	[inc 2, sc] all the way
4	18	Skin (light peach)	Sc all the way
5	12	Skin (light peach)	[sc2tog, sc] all the way

* Fasten off and leave enough thread for sewing later.

Arms (make 2)

Row	Stitches	Color	Notes
1	6	Skin (light peach)	Magic loop
2	12	Skin (light peach)	2 sc on each st
3	18	Skin (light peach)	[inc 2, sc] all the way
4 to 5	18	Skin (light peach)	Sc all the way
6	18	Skin (light peach)	Sc (Start stuffing the arms here)
7	16	Skin (light peach)	[sc2tog, 7sc]2x
8 to 9	16	Skin (light peach)	Sc all the way
10	14	Skin (light peach)	[sc2tog, 6sc]2x
11 to 12	14	Skin (light peach)	Sc all the way
13	12	Skin (light peach)	[sc2tog, 5sc]2x
14 to 18	12	Skin (light peach)	Sc all the way
18	8	Skin (light peach)	[sc2tog, sc]

* Fasten off and leave enough thread for sewing later.

Tip: You can do a color change on row 6 if you want to give your doll a bracelet.

Legs (make 2)

Row	Stitches	Color	Notes
1	6	Metallic silver	Magic loop
2	12	Metallic silver	2 sc on every st all the way
3	24	Metallic silver	2 sc on every st all the way
4	24	Metallic silver	sc all the way
5	20	Skin (light peach)	4sc, [sc2tog] 4x, sc all the way
6	18	Skin (light peach)	3 sc, [sc2tog]2x, sc all the way (stuff toes with cotton here)
7 to 11	18	Skin (light peach)	sc all the way (16 rows in total. You can add or subtract 3 rows to make a doll shorter or taller.)

Torso (continued after joining legs)

Join legs to form the torso.

Ensure that the feet are pointing at the same direction. Begin by making a chain using white yarn.	Begin by joining where the toes are pointing. Pull the loop from the first ST all the way through.	Work your way to the opposite direction. Use SC pulling the yarn through both legs to join.
Join legs by 3sc.	Begin the first row for the torso. There should be 15 stitches for each leg round.

You’re very likely to lose count during this step so it’s very useful to use a stitch marker to see where you begin the first row of the torso.

UPDATE 8-9-2011: The photos are a little blurry but here are some illustrated diagrams to  help with the leg join.

The first three stitches used to secure the legs together do not count for the torso’s first row.

Once you’ve made the three stitches to attach the legs together, turn and begin your first round to form the underwear.

Row	stitches	Color	Notes
1	30	Alternating white and skin to create underwear pattern.Start with white.	sc (join)(white) 4 sc, (skin) 9 sc, (white) 4sc, (skin) 9sc, (white) 4sc
2	30	Alternating white and skin to create underwear pattern.	sc all the way(white) 3 sc, (skin) 7 sc, (white) 8 sc, (skin) 7 sc, (white) 7 sc
3	30	Alternating white and skin to create underwear pattern.	sc all the way(white) 4 sc, (skin) 5 sc, (white) 10 sc, (skin) 5 sc, (white) 8 sc
4	28	White	[sc2tog, 6 sc] 2x
5	24	Skin (light peach)	[sc2tog, 5 sc] 4x
6	24	Skin (light peach)	Sc all the way
7	24	White	Sc // Begin skirt
Begin forming the skirt… Row Stitches Color Notes 7 (1) 48 White Chain 2, Turn and 2 dc on each FL 7 (2) 48 White Dc on each st 7 (3) 96 White 2 dc on each st 7 (4) 96 White Dc on each st 7 (5) 192 White 2 dc on each st 7 (6) 192 White Dc on each st 7 (7) — White [Chain 2, sl on the next st] all the way to create lace edge of skirt Tip: Alternatively, you can use [2dc, dc] for increasing the skirt to have a more tapering, balloon look if you don’t like it to be too ruffly.
8 18 Metallic Silver Continue using BL. [sc2tog, 2sc]4x // Begin waist 9 to 11 18 Metallic Silver Sc // waist 11 24 White [inc 2, 2sc] 4x // Begin chest 12 to 13 24 White Sc // Chest 14 24 Skin (light peach Sc // Chest 15 18 Skin (light peach) [sc2tog, 2sc] 16 12 Skin (light peach) [sc2tog, sc] // neck

Assembly

This is the pattern I used to make the felt hair. The pattern is made from 6 wedges that form a hemisphere when sewn together. This is the approximate shape and how to figure out the dimensions needed.

Head circumference: 5 inches

Radius: 1 inch (Measure from the center of the magic ring to doll’s hairline, row 8 or 9)

If you haven’t already, sew the ears to the head which will help you cut out scrap hair and work around them while working on the felt hair.

Take the head’s measurements and cut out your pattern	Sew the seams together.	Sew the front and back pieces on the wrong side.
Flip the cap and try it on the doll. Cut out the bangs and hair unevenly for a better look.	Using scraps, cut out scraps of hair.	This is an organic process so add as many scraps of hair you want or necessary to hide bald spots.
Once you’re happy with the way the scraps look, sew them on first.	Sew the main cap on. Sew with the bangs flipped over so that when you flip it after sewing, it has a bumpy effect.	Flip over the main cap. Secure with fabric glue underneath if necessary or if you want to add more stability.

Alternative hair tutorials if you don’t want to use felt:

• Making and attaching hair – http://needlenoodles.com/home/?q=node/83
• Embroidered hair – http://owlishly.typepad.com/owlishly/2007/08/amigurumi-hair.html
• Amigurumi hair methods – http://mygurumi.blogspot.com/2008/10/how-to-amigurumi-hair.html

Check to make sure that the parts are all facing the right way before attaching. The head usually swivels towards the left or right if you’re a stitch too far off from the center.

Sew the parts together and you’re done!